Friday, October 20, 2023

Not So Tasty – National Dish: Around the World in Search of Food, History, and the Meaning of Home by Anya von Bremzen

A big disappointment after my high expectations for this book, which just proves that reviews can be misleading, though I saw several on Goodreads that concur with my opinion. 

I found the first two sections rambling and repetitive, and in retrospect, I should have stopped reading after the Naples chapter, which was actually about pizza and pasta, not just one dish, but I foolishly soldiered on. The Tokyo chapter also covered two dishes, rice and ramen. I somehow made it through the tapas of Seville, though if I ever see the word jamón again, I will stamp my feet in an angry flamenco. The Oaxaca chapter then literally put me to sleep, which is especially shocking, as the ten days or so I spent in Oaxaca were some of the most memorable of my travels. That was the end of this book for me. 

In retrospect, I don't think that the premise for the book is sound. Many countries, even very small ones, have regional cuisines or cities that are known for a particular food, so to define an entire country by one dish seems both superficial and absurd – consider Belgium, as an example, where waterzooi is the signature stew of the Flemish areas, Ghent specifically. Even during my visit all the way back in the late 1980s, I knew enough to have sought it out when I stayed in Ghent – and not only was it delicious, but try as I have to replicate it, no recipe has ever brought me close to a reminder of that taste or experience in that particular place. 

Even the author herself expresses that the food culture of Naples and whole of the south of Italy is completely different from that of the north of the country. I can attest to the truth of that at least, based on my own observations during multiple trips throughout Italy. In the Naples chapter, she presents some of the history of the Risorgimento (unification), and of the origin of Pizza Margherita (named after Queen Margherita, the wife of King Umberto I, the first ruler of the unified Italian kingdom), but that is widespread knowledge to most foodies and travelers to Italy who would be the likely readers of this book. 

So, sorry, if you are a lover of food writing and food travel, perhaps look elsewhere for your inspiration enjoyment.

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