Sunday, July 25, 2021
Beyond the Image: The Bohemians by Jasmin Darznik
Friday, July 9, 2021
Runway Revolution: The Battle of Versailles by Robin Givhan
In November 1973, an epic event in the history of fashion took place. Five leading American fashion designers: Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, and Anne Klein, and five renowned French couturiers: Pierre Cardin, Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Emanuel Ungaro, presented their work with great fanfare and drama at the Théâtre Gabriel at the Palace of Versailles.
The showdown between French haute couture tradition and the new trends of American design was intended as a fund raiser for the King Louis XIV Palace, which was badly in need of restoration. It attracted the leading lights of international high society, royalty – Princess Grace of Monaco was in attendance – artists, movie stars and others who were household names of the time. Not only were the designers' collections shown, but there was top flight entertainment from Liza Minelli fresh from her triumph in the movie Cabaret, iconic performer Josephine Baker, and the world famous ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev.
Robin Givhan, the Pulitzer Prize-winning fashion critic for the The Washington Post, presents the backstory and the preparations for the event and dissects all of its historical and social implications in this page turner of a book.
Givhan brilliantly describes how far more was at stake than who were the better designers – the French or the Americans. The early 1970s were an extension of the period of great social and economic change around the world that began in the early 1960s with the coming of age of the oldest Baby Boomers in America and abroad: new trends in popular music and art, changes in the role of women, youth culture, new sexual freedom as a result of the invention of the birth control pill, and the demands of the Black community for equality.
Givhan gives us capsule biographies of the designers, describes the fashion industries and their histories in both France and the United States, introduces us to the leading models, many of whom on the American side were African-American and had remarkable life stories, and weaves in the biography and accomplishments of master publicist Eleanor Lambert, a woman who wove together the all the elements of the event and brought it to life. Altogether, it is a remarkable slice of history. Almost fifty years later, 1973 seems both distant and only yesterday, depending on the age and perspective of the reader, but Givhan recounts that time and the settings for the events so vividly that they feel like elements of an incredible technicolor dream.
I highly recommend this book for readers with interests in social history, fashion as an expression of its time, and anyone who knows Paris or has worked in the fashion and garment industry in France or New York.
Tuesday, July 6, 2021
The Grandeur that Was Rome: Eternal by Lisa Scottoline
For Lisa Scottoline's sweeping, superb first historical novel, after many successful and entertaining suspense thrillers/mysteries, she has chosen the subject of Rome under Mussolini prior to and during World War II, focusing on the plight of the Roman Jews and the rise of violent Fascism.
Rome has been home to a Jewish community for time immemorial, and in the pre-war years, many families enjoyed a comfortable life, positions in the professions and the universities. Roman Jews, at least the family she portrays in this novel, saw themselves as an assimilated part of society and as citizens of Rome and Italy, equal to their Christian friends and neighbors.
When Mussolini came to power after World War I, in fact, many Jews embraced him as their leader and joined the Fascist party, which sounds shocking now, in light of what occurred later.
Scottoline's novel follows three school friends, Elisabetta, a beautiful young Catholic girl growing into womanhood, Sandro, a brilliant Jewish mathematician and son of a lawyer and doctor, and Marco, a handsome cyclist whose father runs a popular bar/restaurant, and whose oldest brother is a priest. The boys have been best friends since early childhood and Elisabetta rounds out their trio.
Relationships become complicated when the trio reaches their teen years and both boys fall for Elisabetta, who is drawn to them each for different reasons. The advent of the war and the developments in politics, as anti-Jewish laws are enacted, change everything for Rome and for the three and their families.
When Mussolini joins forces with Hitler and the Nazis invade, things quickly move from bad to worse. Day by day, the noose around Jewish families and the Jewish community is tightened. Jews must leave their homes and professions and are forced into the Ghetto. There is first disbelief, and gradually, greater and greater suffering for the Jews and Italians as a whole. Scottoline has done a remarkable job of breaking down the day-by-day events and conveying the mounting tension and horrific conditions that lead to murders, violent beatings, and a round-up of nearly the entire Jewish population of Rome.
These are all historical facts, but the specifics will be new for many readers, as they were to me. The war destroyed much of the fabric of Roman society, just as it destroyed historic buildings with the bombings. It took decades for the city to revive after so much suffering, but the Jewish community of Italy will never be what it once was, after the deportations and emigration to Israel and the United States. So tragic what we do to each other.
Scottoline's novel is well-paced, meticulously researched and a fascinating read. I hope she will follow up – perhaps with a novel set in Venice? To be determined...
Half a Quartet: The Saturdays and The Four-Story Mistake by Elizabeth Enright
A Voice Silenced: Little Girl Blue, the Life of Karen Carpenter by Randy L. Schmidt
What a sad, sad tale...a young life and a great talent snuffed out by mental and physical illnesses. It's well-known that Karen Carpenter died at the age of thirty-two from heart failure brought on by an extreme case of anorexia nervosa. How she reached that disastrous point has been thoroughly traced and documented in this biography by Randy L. Schmidt.
While her older brother Richard's talents were intrinsic to their ultimate superstar-level success, it was Karen's singing voice that captured the attention of everyone who heard it. Her interpretations of songs by composers including Paul Williams, Burt Bacharach, Lennon-McCartney and others were, in many cases, the indelible and definitive versions of those songs and remain so decades after her death.
Schmidt explores the family dynamic of the Carpenter family in great detail. The family unit, consisting of Karen and Richard, and their parents Agnes and Harold, was tight and intense. The children were so controlled by Agnes Carpenter that they continued to live at home well after they were thoroughly adult and incredibly wealthy from their musical success. These circumstances set the stage for Karen's later problems.
Schmidt explains that Richard had a great talent for the piano, playing, arranging and composing music. This was recognized early on by their parents, particularly Agnes, who made sacrifices of all kinds to forward his career, while Karen was treated as a very secondary talent...and child. Nearly all attention was lavished on Richard, and Karen was left trying to please her mother and get some of the love and approval so freely given to her brother. Despite the great success of the duo, and Karen's singular recognition as an extraordinary singer and interpreter of lyrics, it never seemed to be enough, and Karen spiraled down from her early negative feelings into depression, self-doubt and sadness, which manifested itself in her eating disorder, a problem that was not recognized as it is now. In fact, it is because of Karen's death that attention was brought to anorexia and related conditions.
During her career, Karen developed close friendships with fellow singers Olivia Newton-John, Petula Clark and Dionne Warwick. Warwick contributed the foreword to this book. Schmidt interviewed them, along with many others, to obtain intimate details of Karen's troubled life and disappointments, her failed marriage and professional challenges. This chronicle of her life conveys what was truly a tragedy. To be so talented and so successful, yet in so much pain, is a terrible waste and a testament to the necessity for more awareness of mental and emotional illnesses, and better mental health treatment, especially for girls and women.